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| Binding glue http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=1173 |
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| Author: | Robbie O'Brien [ Mon Feb 28, 2005 1:15 am ] |
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recently on this forum I rememebr a discussion about glue available from Home Depot or Lowes that would substitute for the expensive LMI glue for installing ivoroid bindings. Can anyone recall the brand name of this glue and methods of application? |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Mon Feb 28, 2005 1:22 am ] |
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Duco cement. Just use it as normal. |
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| Author: | John Mayes [ Mon Feb 28, 2005 2:15 am ] |
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or titebond, just wipe the inside edge with a little bit of acetone :) |
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| Author: | Robbie O'Brien [ Mon Feb 28, 2005 2:27 am ] |
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Are you talking about the regular titebond wood glue John? and then just wipe the inside edge of the iovoroid binding with acetone before gluing up? |
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| Author: | Dickey [ Mon Feb 28, 2005 2:31 am ] |
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I've used Duco for five years, got the hint from Charlie Hoffman. Did a test once with Duco, CA, and Titebond, then ripped the binding off. They all released it cleanly, so I didn't learn much. The plastic bindings are definitely not glued as well as wood to wood on a guitar, the nature of the beast, I suppose. |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Mon Feb 28, 2005 2:33 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Robbie O'Brien] Are you talking about the regular titebond wood glue John? and then just wipe the inside edge of the iovoroid binding with acetone before gluing up?[/QUOTE] Robbie, not trying to speak for John here, but yes! Exactly.. Regular Titebond, and wipe the gluing surface of the bindings with acetone to soften them up a bit. |
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| Author: | Dave-SKG [ Mon Feb 28, 2005 2:44 am ] |
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Robbie, I am not speaking for Lance here, but yes! Titebond and acetone works  . I like using the Weldon the best. Stewmac is expensive perhaps a Google search could find a cheaper supplier of the Weldon. I don't use ivroid or plastic binding so one tube lasts me a while. I do use it (weldon) for repairs and it has always been reliable. 
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| Author: | Robbie O'Brien [ Mon Feb 28, 2005 3:49 pm ] |
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Thanks for the info guys. I don't use ivoroid bindings either but I have a student who insists on using them. |
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| Author: | Matt Gage [ Mon Feb 28, 2005 10:46 pm ] |
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sorry to chime in so late, but I am with Dave. IMHO weld on is way better than duco. I think ( Im not sure) that the duco has acetone in it and can distort the bindings,sort of melting them. The weld on dose`nt do that. I like using the weld on a lot because I use wood purflings and plastic bindings together often. I would consider using it for wood to wood applications as well. weld on wont soak into end grain either. |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Tue Mar 01, 2005 1:28 am ] |
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I've not used the Weldon - although I have a bottle, John Greven recommended it to me for rosettes. The Duco does indeed melt into the bindings, and thats what its suppose to do. It melts into the plastic, and bonds to the wood. What Ive found though, is you need to allow the bindings to gas off for a week or so, BEFORE you attempt to level them. That said, I think I will give the Weldon a try. |
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| Author: | Dickey [ Tue Mar 01, 2005 1:49 am ] |
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The Duco, like Lance said is supposed to meld the purflings and really works well. I've levelled the rosette rings glued with it the next day. With good tight joints, there is actually little glue left in the joint, all excess is forced out. Plus, plastic bindings are made up using acetone alone as the glue, so it's not surprising that Duco has a acetone base. It's cheap, and available at ACE Hardware and Lowes. Charlie Hoffman suggested it to me five years ago and it's working well. But just to be open minded, I'll try Weldon, where do you get it? |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Tue Mar 01, 2005 2:05 am ] |
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I got it at ACE Hardward, its in a red and white bottle. |
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| Author: | Matt Gage [ Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:30 pm ] |
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Yeah, I think you`ll like working with the weld on better. it has all the qualities of duco....with out any melting. |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:31 pm ] |
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Matt, how does it work in plain wood bindings? |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:52 pm ] |
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I would wait several days to level plastic put on w/ weld on. I had guitar's purflings "ball up" once when I scraped too early and they peeled in below the bindings and sides... it was a real PITA to fix... now I pretty much use wood exclusively.. [:-)] |
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| Author: | Dave Rector [ Wed Mar 02, 2005 12:41 am ] |
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I was at my local plastic store yeysterday to get some stuff for jigs. I asked the guy there what to use to glue some stuff up and he handed me some weld-on in a big tube. We talked about application a little bit and he came up with a quart of the stuff and a little glue bottle for application. I didn't even know it but weld-on comes in a water-thin version that you can use in a glue bottle with a very small, needle like, tip. Just some FYI. |
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| Author: | Robbie O'Brien [ Wed Mar 02, 2005 1:18 am ] |
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That is why I love this forum! Just look at the wealth of information that came from a simple question! Thanks
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| Author: | tippie53 [ Wed Mar 02, 2005 1:25 am ] |
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I also an switching to more wood binding. There are more choices. As for the weldon and duco discussion , I do find it interesting. I use more celuloid binding over the plastic ( boltaron) . The melting as help the celuloid bond to the wood better. I worked on some older guitars and when steaming necks I an pretty sure the plastic will need touch ups and the celuloid usually doesn't. Celuloid will also shrink over time and may crack. The acetone base also lets you get perfect joints with ease. Again I allways learn something here. I tried the tite bond on the bindings on my first guitar and it never worked but I didn't know about the acetone. I will have to do some sample tests . thanks for the new info John Hall |
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| Author: | Matt Gage [ Thu Mar 03, 2005 10:31 pm ] |
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Matt, how does it work in plain wood bindings? I think it works well. |
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